SEE
St Augustine Church
1210 Governor Nicholls St
Although First African Baptist Church in Central City is older, St Augustine is the most famous African American church in the city. Perhaps partly because it has never been totally African American. When the church was founded by free people of color in 1842, pews went on sale for families that wanted to reserve them. A bidding race emerged between black and white families, a race the black families won by around three to one.
The free people donated extra pews to slaves, but the white families never gave up their seats, and thus the church was integrated, if essentially by accident. Today this active congregation is heavily involved in community improvement activities in the Treme and greater New Orleans.
Tomb of the Unknown Slave
1210 Governor Nicholls St (between Gov Nicholl Sts and Treme St)
One of the more powerful memorials in the city, the Tomb of the Unknown Slave is a moving tribute to the victims of the African diaspora. Located on the grounds of St Augustine Church, the tomb is marked by a cross fashioned from chains- an elegiac reminder of the conditions Africans were brought to the country in, but also a testament to hope and faith in the face of that violent history.
New Orleans African American Museum of Art, Culture and History
1418 Governor Nicholls St
Currently undergoing a renovation, NOAAM is a comprehensive look into the art, culture and folkways of the city’s African American population.
EAT
Willie Mae’s Scotch House
2401 St Ann St
504-822-9503
10am-5pm, closed Sun
Folks come from all over the world for Willie Mae’s fried chicken, and we can’t blame them, but it is funny to see the license plates from California to Quebec lined up outside this little white shack (which is surprisingly roomy and elegant on the inside). Anyways, we’re happy the folks line up here, because Willie Mae’s was almost destroyed by Katrina, but a community effort resurrected the restaurant, which now serves plates and plates of what the folks at James Beard have called the best fried chicken in the world.
Dooky Chase
2301 Orleans
504-821-0600
11am-3pm Tue-Fri, 5-9pm Fri
It’s not a stretch to say Dooky Chase is the most famous soul food joint in Louisiana. It’s not just that the food is good (although trust us: the food is excellent, and the lunch buffet deal is an absolute steal). Dooky Chase also happened to be an informal headquarters for activists during the Civil Rights movement, so this restaurant is as important to the history of New Orleans as it is to the culinary heritage.
Speaking of culinary heritage, perhaps the most quintessential vegetarian dish in the city is Leah Chase’s gumo z’herbes, a meatless version of the soup made from several types of greens, served during lent to observant Catholics. Dooky Chase was another restaurant that was almost destroyed by Katrina, and resurrected by a coordinated community effort to raise funds for fixing the place back up.