Bywater

  • Written by Katy Reckdahl
  • Audio by Eve Abrams
  • Photos by Cheryl Gerber

SEE & SHOP

Crescent Park

Piety & Chartres
7am-7pm

This wonderful riverfront park, fronted by an enormous rust-colored arch bridge, manages to combine modern design sense, green landscaping and unbeatable views of the Mississippi River. There’s a dog run if you’re bringing a canine friend.

The Healing Center

2372 St Claude Ave
(504) 940-1130

It’s hard to miss the Healing Center. First, it sits at a prominent corner of St Roch and St Claude avenues. Second, it’s bright, Starburst orange. The Healing Center is a massive New Age well, we hesitate to call it a â⒬œmall”, so let’s say it’s a gathering place for like-minded individuals to search out spell ingredients for vodoun incantations, crystal healing, holistic chiropractors, book stores, performance spaces, Middle Eastern food and a rather well-stocked food co-op.

Clouet Gardens

Clouet, between Royal and Dauphine

This once empty lot has been taken over neighbors and turned into a wonderful (if small) park, filled with murals, local art, a funky tire swing and a general sense of community quirkiness.

Markey Park

Royal & Piety St

This kid-friendly park hosts plenty of neighborhood activities.

Bon Castor

3207 Burgundy St
(504) 948-9987
11am-7pm Tue-Fri, til 8pm Sat, noon-6pm Sun, closed Mon

Local arts and crafts par excellence. Need a cool gift made by someone in the city? Come here.

Dr Bob’s Art Gallery

3027 Chartres St
(504) 945-2225

Dr Bob is a self-taught folk artist with the sunny disposition of a ticked off honey badger. That said, catch the guy on a good day and he’ll regale you with some local, decidedly un-PC stories, His art, which decorates plenty of local businesses and residences, brings to mind the surreal eclectic aesthetic of the city and surrounding wetlands.

EAT

Elizabeth’s

601 Gallier St
(504) 944-9272
8am-2:30pm & g:30-10pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2:30pm Sun

Elizabeth’s is almost the embodiment of the quirky New Orleans neighborhood restaurant. Covered with funky folk art, much of it sourced from nearby Dr. Bob, the menu is a sort of playground of only-in-New Orleans whimsy and indulgence: smoked oysters served atop foie gras, pork chops topped with gravy and shrimp and the ever decadent praline bacon, bacon cooked in brown sugar that may give you the world’s happiest heart attack. The smoked ribeye constitutes what may be the best red meat breakfast in the world. Especially popular for Sunday brunch (see the bit about praline bacon if you have to ask why).

Bacchanal

600 Poland Ave, New Orleans, LA 70117
(504) 948-9111
11am-midnight

Bacchanal is a New Orleans eating experience par excellence (plus exceptionalism). That is to say, it’s a totally only-in-Nola spot. We’ll try to set the scene, but really, you just have to come here to get a sense of one of the happiest places in the city. Here goes imagine, if you will, an outdoor garden bedecked with Christmas lights fronted by a shop that sells fantastic wine and luscious cheese. Order yourself some fruit of the gape and fermented dairy product, then enjoy in said back garden but please, please, don’t forget to pick up an order from the back kitchen, which slings out chorizo-wrapped dates and pork chops descended from Heaven on High. Did we mention there’s usually soft jazz music to accompany your great meal?

The Joint

701 Mazant St
(504) 949-3232
11:30am-10pm Mon-Sat, closed Sun

Their motto (or catchphrase) is “Get you some”,ҝ which speaks to the earthy sensuality , the almost erotically charged attraction of the smoky goodness scent emanating from this barbeque hack par excellence. God, seriously: if we could bottle the smell of the Joint’s pork and brisket we would Febreeze our house with it, except then we’d always be hungry. Grab the BB’que and eat it on wooden benches or outside in a convivial setting that is consistently neighborly and charming. Wash it down with a sweet tea or a delicious beer from the well-stocked bar.

Pizza Delicious

617 Piety St.
(504) 676-8482
11am-11pm Tue-Sun, closed Mon

This is exactly what a neighborhood pizza joint should be. The pie is as simple or as artesinal as you want, but whether you go with a basic cheese or pepperoni or whatever the innovative pizza of the day is, rest assured, the final product is pretty amazing.

DRINK

Markey’s Bar

640 Louisa St
2pm-late Mon-Fri, from noon Sat & Sun

This local bar is the spot to come watch sports, take shots, watch sports and take shots, play shuffleboard, or – here’s an idea – watch sports, take shots and play shuffleboard.

BJ’s Lounge 4

301 Burgundy St
(504) 945-9256
Noon-ish til who knows

This neighborhood bar is the epitome of a neighborhood bar. There’s smoke, strong drinks, a big ol’ lazy guard dog, live music (especially on Mondays; catch the 10:30pm show with King James & the Special Men), sporadic cooking and more smoke.

Vaughan’s

4226 Dauphine St
(504) 947-5562
Noon-late
There’s brass music on Thursday nights, local sass and some funky-fied decor.

Saturn Bar

3067 St Claude Ave
(504) 949-7532
5pm-late, from 6pm on Sun
Live music. Weekend dance parties. Sci-fi posters and taxonomy on the walls. This is a decidedly strange bar,bordering on the surreal, but it is also supremely awesome and should factor into your New Orleans itinerary.

Our Local Publisher Partners

The Arts Council of New Orleans

The Arts Council of New Orleans is a private, non-profit organization designated as the City’s official arts agency. The Arts Council serves as one of eight regional distributing agencies for state arts funds and administers available municipal arts grants and the Percent For Art program for the City of New Orleans. The Arts Council works in partnership with the City of New Orleans, community groups, local, state, and national governmental agencies, and other nonprofit arts organizations to meet the arts and cultural needs of the New Orleans community through a diversity of initiatives and services.

WWNO

WWNO, the NPR member station for New Orleans, serves southeast Louisiana and parts of southwest Mississippi by broadcasting balanced news, thought provoking analysis, classical music, jazz and other musical styles, intelligent entertainment, and unique local content. We broadcast on 89.9 FM, and KTLN 90.5 FM in the Houma-Thibodaux area as a public service of the University of New Orleans. All of WWNO’s programs, including its growing local news coverage, are available online at WWNO.org.

WWOZ

WWOZ 90.7 FM is the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Station offering listener-supported, volunteer-programmed community radio. WWOZ covers many events live in and around the city and across the United States, and broadcasts live from the famed New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival annually. WWOZ’s mission is to be the worldwide voice, archive, and flag-bearer of New Orleans culture and musical heritage.

PRC

Preservation Resource Center (PRC) has been preserving, restoring, and revitalizing New Orleans’ historic architecture and neighborhoods since 1974. Throughout its history, PRC has acted as an advocacy agent on a local, regional, and national scale, spreading the word about the city’s rich architectural heritage and the economic importance of preserving this heritage. PRC also takes a hands-on approach to preservation, with a history of successfully restoring over 1,400 properties. The center strengthens and revitalizes New Orleans in a way that is forward-looking and sustainable, yet sensitive to the city’s past and its heritage.

NOMA

As a nexus for the arts in New Orleans, NOMA is committed to preserving, interpreting, and enriching its collections and renowned sculpture garden; offering innovative experiences for learning and interpretation; and uniting, inspiring, and engaging diverse communities and cultures.

The Historic New Orleans Collection

The Historic New Orleans Collection (THNOC) is a museum, research center, and publisher dedicated to preserving the history and culture of New Orleans and the Gulf South. Its holdings comprise more than one million items from more than three centuries, documenting moments both major and minor. Its four exhibition spaces–the Williams Gallery, the Louisiana History Galleries, the Boyd Cruise Gallery, and the Laura Simon Nelson Galleries for Louisiana Art–faithfully depict the multicultural stories of the region, from permanent displays exploring the evolution of Louisiana to rotating exhibitions showcasing history and fine art.

Southern Food

The Southern Food and Beverage Museum is a nonprofit living history organization dedicated to the discovery, understanding and celebration of the food, drink and the related culture of the South. While based in New Orleans, the Museum examines and celebrates all the cultures that have come together through the centuries to create the South’s unique culinary heritage. The Museum is also home to the collections of the Museum of the American Cocktail, the Galerie d’Absinthe, and a demonstration kitchen.

Louisiana Endowment for the Humanities

The Louisiana Endowment for the Humanities is a non-profit organization dedicated to providing educational opportunities to all Louisianans.

The Louisiana Endowment for the Humanities’ mission is to provide all Louisianans with access to and an appreciation of their own rich, shared and diverse historical, literary and cultural heritage through grant-supported outreach programs, family literacy and adult reading initiatives, teacher professional development institutes, publications, film and radio documentaries, museum exhibitions, cultural tourism, public lectures, library projects, and other public humanities programming.

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